Cork Fashion Week is a bit of a misnomer. A fashion week is industry only. In Cork, shows are ticketed and open to all. The clothes you see on a runway are shown six months ahead of production. What you see in Milan in February, you won’t see in Brown Thomas until September. In Cork, what you see is already, or very soon to be manufactured. Fashion weeks are intense, fraught and cloaked in mystique, albeit a mystique that dissolves a little bit as each season passes.
In Cork, we take a much more leisurely pace. It’s both our idiosyncratic advantage and the perpetual pebble in our shoe.
It was with that in mind that I went to ‘Made in Cork: A Prequel to Cork Fashion Week’ in the Woodford Bar last Sunday. As I was waiting to go in, a possibly drunk, possibly homeless man tried to climb a tall, spiked, wrought-iron gate opposite the bar. He made a decent go of it, but impaled himself in the groin over two spikes and had to be lifted off the gate by a bartender and a slightly wobbly passer-by, who managed the whole procedure with a cigarette clamped between his teeth.
A Garda van pulled up, obscuring the view. Then, the sound of denim ripping and a very loud, sharp intake of breath. It was time to go inside. An inauspicious start in any circumstance.
I hoped that this wouldn’t be the marker for the event. Taking a seat inside the smoking area afforded the best views and elbow room, so that was where I sat myself, with a notebook, an unfortunate looking BIC pen and an endless supply of fizzy pop.
The crowd was a mix of models, photographers, fashion lovers and one small, very bored looking boy in Communion garb. Unlike London fashion week, where everyone is stressed beyond belief, the attendees looked genuinely happy. They were smiling, greeting each other with hugs, buying pints (of champagne), trading bon mots and making plans for the evening.
It was as if they were actually glad to be there (with the exception of Communion Boy, who had a pout that Andre Leon Talley would spontaneously combust with jealousy over). This is not the fashion week the world was used to. I was bamboozled. Pleasantly bamboozled.
The first half of the show was excellent. Trends were expertly curated. The preppy looks were a particular favourite - all white jeans and jumpers casually knotted over shoulders, ready for a game of tennis in the Hamptons. The vintage dress selection from Miss Daisy Blue was excellent as usual, with a mix of psychedelic print maxis, prom dress and LBDs that looked classically and contemporary.
It’s always good to see something grow and expand. I’m very proud to have been a witness of such growth from Cork Fashion Week’s inception. This September promises to be the most diverse and exciting Fashion Week yet.
Each year it gets a little bit bigger and, as Cork become even more creative and focused on fashion niches, the community at large adapts and rallies around it. Even if it’s something as ridiculous as lifting a stuck wino off a gate.
Showing posts with label Cool Corkonians. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cool Corkonians. Show all posts
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Licentiate Column 28/04/11: Shopping Irish Vintage
I have two fashion bugbears. One is the bizarre weekly columns of a certain fashion writer for a certain Irish National newspaper, which I pore over weekly like a small child examining the progress of a greenish, particularly notched scab on his knee. Each week I’m increasingly boggled by the factual inaccuracies, patronising attitudes and overdone, lazy ‘shoes-equal-life’ metaphors and Coco Chanel quotes casually executed (in the ‘death by firing squad’ sense) by this writer.
But that’s a column for a country without libel laws. That column will never exist, which is a good thing, because writing it would probably result in such a cathartic burst that I’d expire of sheer happiness on pressing the ‘send’ button.
The other bugbear is much more manageable. That bugbear is the Irish vintage market. As complicated and full of cozeners as the average Dickens scenario, as full of scammers, well-meaning innocents and true-blue fanatics as an X Factor audition and more complicated than a marathon run of Twin Peaks, your average vintage market is not to be ventured into unless you’re very well-educated or have a weight to offload in the wallet area.
In Ireland, people aren’t out to make a profit; they’re out to make a killing. The vintage sector is no different. The problem of overpricing, in my estimation, is obvious in at least half of the Irish vintage vendors.
This is due to many different factors. Vendors buy from abroad and the price of shipping has to be factored in. Vendors buy a dress that they love, but is that little bit too expensive, so the price is doubled for resale. Sometimes vendors are just total chancers and slap a fifty euro price tag on a dress bought from Oxfam or worse, a dress that is obviously from the high street and only a few seasons old, but with the tags not-so-suspiciously missing.
A good rule of thumb is, if you like it and you think it’s worth it, then buy it. If you have any doubts, walk away. In a world where ‘vintage’ has somehow become a by-word for individuality, you’d be surprised how often similar items to the one you just passed up will come along. What’s for you won’t pass by you.
But, if you’re a tight-fisted miser like me, here’s some good resources.
1) Etsy. Etsy is a worldwide vintage and handmade market. The majority of the sellers are from The US, so the dollar to euro conversion will almost definitely work in your favour. Shipping is almost never as expensive as you’d expect and a bargain is never far away if you’re willing to cyber-rummage.
2) Elsa & Gogo. This Irish vintage accessory store has a carefully chosen edit of pretty, ladylike bracelets that look like they came right from Peggy Draper’s dressing table, at very reasonable prices. Elsa & Gogo have one up on the average vintage seller; their packaging is very beautiful and ripe for the gift-giving.
3) Tabitha Vintage. This online shop can be found on Facebook and is the brainchild of bloggers Una O’Boyle and Louise Ryan of Glamrocks Luna, an Irish fashion blog that compiles the very best of style inspiration. Their clothing is superlative grunge-chic, with prices so low I almost want to rub my eyes with surprise like a cartoon character. So, there you have it. Go forth, and shop wisely.
But that’s a column for a country without libel laws. That column will never exist, which is a good thing, because writing it would probably result in such a cathartic burst that I’d expire of sheer happiness on pressing the ‘send’ button.
The other bugbear is much more manageable. That bugbear is the Irish vintage market. As complicated and full of cozeners as the average Dickens scenario, as full of scammers, well-meaning innocents and true-blue fanatics as an X Factor audition and more complicated than a marathon run of Twin Peaks, your average vintage market is not to be ventured into unless you’re very well-educated or have a weight to offload in the wallet area.
In Ireland, people aren’t out to make a profit; they’re out to make a killing. The vintage sector is no different. The problem of overpricing, in my estimation, is obvious in at least half of the Irish vintage vendors.
This is due to many different factors. Vendors buy from abroad and the price of shipping has to be factored in. Vendors buy a dress that they love, but is that little bit too expensive, so the price is doubled for resale. Sometimes vendors are just total chancers and slap a fifty euro price tag on a dress bought from Oxfam or worse, a dress that is obviously from the high street and only a few seasons old, but with the tags not-so-suspiciously missing.
A good rule of thumb is, if you like it and you think it’s worth it, then buy it. If you have any doubts, walk away. In a world where ‘vintage’ has somehow become a by-word for individuality, you’d be surprised how often similar items to the one you just passed up will come along. What’s for you won’t pass by you.
But, if you’re a tight-fisted miser like me, here’s some good resources.
1) Etsy. Etsy is a worldwide vintage and handmade market. The majority of the sellers are from The US, so the dollar to euro conversion will almost definitely work in your favour. Shipping is almost never as expensive as you’d expect and a bargain is never far away if you’re willing to cyber-rummage.
2) Elsa & Gogo. This Irish vintage accessory store has a carefully chosen edit of pretty, ladylike bracelets that look like they came right from Peggy Draper’s dressing table, at very reasonable prices. Elsa & Gogo have one up on the average vintage seller; their packaging is very beautiful and ripe for the gift-giving.
3) Tabitha Vintage. This online shop can be found on Facebook and is the brainchild of bloggers Una O’Boyle and Louise Ryan of Glamrocks Luna, an Irish fashion blog that compiles the very best of style inspiration. Their clothing is superlative grunge-chic, with prices so low I almost want to rub my eyes with surprise like a cartoon character. So, there you have it. Go forth, and shop wisely.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Licentiate Column 03/03/11 - Teenagers
A good column topic is not easy to come by. Sometimes, it's a trend that gets disseminated. Sometimes, it's a 'how to wear' column. Sometimes, it's a mick-taking, joke-making, stick-shaking diatribe. This week, it's all of the above.
For the past few days, I've been thinking about teenagers. Not in a pervy way, of course (exception given to the male cast of Skins) but in a social anthropology kind-of-a-way. I almost want to go down to the park and study their movements, but I won't, because I could end up on some kind of register.
Being a teenager is a big deal. It's a slow moving behemoth that forms who you are through a careful blend of peer pressure, family tensions, hormones, exam stress and many a wardrobe faux-pas. It's a huge experience at the time, but it gets much smaller the further away you move from it. I'm twenty three and my goth years seem like a distant memory speck on the horizon.
For many adults, teens are unknowable, mysterious, elusive beings. Sublimely self-absorbed, aesthetically preoccupied, tumbling headlong into the ownership of their own lives and almost suicidally hellbent on self discovery; it almost seems like fun. Or it would be, if that view wasn't inaccurate, and highly patronising to boot.
While teen life isn't exactly an episode of a certain E4 youth drama, there is one thing that teens do like no adult, and that is express themselves through their clothes. Through youth culture, the fashion world has discovered and co-opted bobby soxers, teddy boys, beatniks, mods, rockers, hippies, preppies, punks, grungeheads, goths and emos, a fraction of a percent of the countless teen clans that have popped up over the past half a century. In truth, all adults want to dress like teenagers.
I saw two girls this week that were perfect specimens of such self expression. The first I saw out shopping with her friends. She was wearing a multicoloured, dizzily patterned, zip-up sweatshirt, a plaid shirt, a pair of black sequinned leggings and the most perfect battered Converse, accessorised with a wavy mane of hair that covered most of her face. She look awkward, but superbly confident. The other I saw trying to sneak into a nightclub with her friends. Her outfit was nothing special, but strapped to her feet were the most fabulous pair of clunky crimson wedges, wrapped with chiffon ribbon. She looked like she had strapped breezeblocks to her feet. She went where few grown women would dare. She looked great.
There's a lot that we can learn from teenagers, not least in how they dress. Here's a refresher course.
1) Throw your style prescription out the window and try new things. Remember, it's about the journey, not the destination.
2) If you're not sure about an outfit, try it on anyway. Some fashion disasters can make beautiful mistakes.
3) Don't be afraid to clash. Your clothes, that is. If you're out of your teens, you should probably avoid clashing with your parents.
3) You can be an individual but still be part of a group. One source of motivation behind youth subcultures is the desire to stand out but also fit in - to assert one's individuality, but be part of a movement. So don't worry that your choices might isolate you; after all, the world is far too small for you to be the only one dressed like that.
Anyway, teenagers have probably been dressing like that well before you thought of it.
For the past few days, I've been thinking about teenagers. Not in a pervy way, of course (exception given to the male cast of Skins) but in a social anthropology kind-of-a-way. I almost want to go down to the park and study their movements, but I won't, because I could end up on some kind of register.
Being a teenager is a big deal. It's a slow moving behemoth that forms who you are through a careful blend of peer pressure, family tensions, hormones, exam stress and many a wardrobe faux-pas. It's a huge experience at the time, but it gets much smaller the further away you move from it. I'm twenty three and my goth years seem like a distant memory speck on the horizon.
For many adults, teens are unknowable, mysterious, elusive beings. Sublimely self-absorbed, aesthetically preoccupied, tumbling headlong into the ownership of their own lives and almost suicidally hellbent on self discovery; it almost seems like fun. Or it would be, if that view wasn't inaccurate, and highly patronising to boot.
While teen life isn't exactly an episode of a certain E4 youth drama, there is one thing that teens do like no adult, and that is express themselves through their clothes. Through youth culture, the fashion world has discovered and co-opted bobby soxers, teddy boys, beatniks, mods, rockers, hippies, preppies, punks, grungeheads, goths and emos, a fraction of a percent of the countless teen clans that have popped up over the past half a century. In truth, all adults want to dress like teenagers.
I saw two girls this week that were perfect specimens of such self expression. The first I saw out shopping with her friends. She was wearing a multicoloured, dizzily patterned, zip-up sweatshirt, a plaid shirt, a pair of black sequinned leggings and the most perfect battered Converse, accessorised with a wavy mane of hair that covered most of her face. She look awkward, but superbly confident. The other I saw trying to sneak into a nightclub with her friends. Her outfit was nothing special, but strapped to her feet were the most fabulous pair of clunky crimson wedges, wrapped with chiffon ribbon. She looked like she had strapped breezeblocks to her feet. She went where few grown women would dare. She looked great.
There's a lot that we can learn from teenagers, not least in how they dress. Here's a refresher course.
1) Throw your style prescription out the window and try new things. Remember, it's about the journey, not the destination.
2) If you're not sure about an outfit, try it on anyway. Some fashion disasters can make beautiful mistakes.
3) Don't be afraid to clash. Your clothes, that is. If you're out of your teens, you should probably avoid clashing with your parents.
3) You can be an individual but still be part of a group. One source of motivation behind youth subcultures is the desire to stand out but also fit in - to assert one's individuality, but be part of a movement. So don't worry that your choices might isolate you; after all, the world is far too small for you to be the only one dressed like that.
Anyway, teenagers have probably been dressing like that well before you thought of it.
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Round Up/Links Dump... eh... thing
I'm not going to lie - I've been a bad blogger lately. Inspiration has been low and I've come to the end of the broadband contract, so the flat is internetless. And cold. But that's beside the point. Most of the blog writing has been done in a very dodgy internet cafe near my flat, populated with sleeping winos and people conducting very loud arguments via Skype.
But, and this is a big but, I do have some cool and interesting stuff in the pipeline, which shall be revealed in due time. Here are a few interesting links to show you that I'm still connected to the world in some way and tide the regular readers (thanks guys...) over 'til I get my blogging mojo back.
- I've got a facebook profile - fancy being friends?
- Disneyrollergirl revealed! There goes my claim to fame of seeing the back of her head at London Fashion Week in September...
- Free samples of Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream. This stuff is amazing - the offer is only open to people in the UK and Ireland. Go forth and be moisturised (or accelerate the rate of burn recovery if that's what floats your boat).
I'm really looking forward to watching this at The Pavilion, Cork tonight. The Way of the Crowd is about the Wigan Casino, which was the epicentre of the Northern Soul scene. When Paul Smith is one of the talking heads, you know it's going to be interesting. I'm also looking forward to seeing some flash dance moves afterwards. It's what I imagine I look like when I'm drunk - the reality is much crueler.
- The-Coveted vs.thecoveted drama; get informed and weigh in with your opinion.
- Friend of The Licentiate, Jo Linehan of S-oh S-ew! is competing to be one of Elle Magazine's next fashion interns - go throw her a vote if you have a spare moment (maybe this way she'll hire me when she becomes a Big Shot Editor Type).
- I noticed that my column from last week didn't recieve the same amount of feedback as the others normally do. The views are the same, so I'm wondering if it's the subject. Do fashion and politics mix? Or is Margeret Thatcher too evil/sacred to comment on? Let me know what you think. Click here to read the column if you haven't got the foggiest notion what I'm on about.
But, and this is a big but, I do have some cool and interesting stuff in the pipeline, which shall be revealed in due time. Here are a few interesting links to show you that I'm still connected to the world in some way and tide the regular readers (thanks guys...) over 'til I get my blogging mojo back.
- I've got a facebook profile - fancy being friends?
- Disneyrollergirl revealed! There goes my claim to fame of seeing the back of her head at London Fashion Week in September...
- Free samples of Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream. This stuff is amazing - the offer is only open to people in the UK and Ireland. Go forth and be moisturised (or accelerate the rate of burn recovery if that's what floats your boat).
I'm really looking forward to watching this at The Pavilion, Cork tonight. The Way of the Crowd is about the Wigan Casino, which was the epicentre of the Northern Soul scene. When Paul Smith is one of the talking heads, you know it's going to be interesting. I'm also looking forward to seeing some flash dance moves afterwards. It's what I imagine I look like when I'm drunk - the reality is much crueler.
- The-Coveted vs.thecoveted drama; get informed and weigh in with your opinion.
- Friend of The Licentiate, Jo Linehan of S-oh S-ew! is competing to be one of Elle Magazine's next fashion interns - go throw her a vote if you have a spare moment (maybe this way she'll hire me when she becomes a Big Shot Editor Type).
- I noticed that my column from last week didn't recieve the same amount of feedback as the others normally do. The views are the same, so I'm wondering if it's the subject. Do fashion and politics mix? Or is Margeret Thatcher too evil/sacred to comment on? Let me know what you think. Click here to read the column if you haven't got the foggiest notion what I'm on about.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Style Icon - Wallis Simpson
Today started well. I found out that I was a nominee for Ireland's Top Fashion Blogger. This is a total surprise, because I didn't solicit a nomination, but now that I've got one, I'm going to cling onto it until my fingernails fall off and pimp myself out for votes like an underage Jodie Foster. Can you tell that I was the kid who never won any prizes on sports day?
I don't for a second think that I'll come out on top with so many excellent blogs nominated, but if you like this blog and don't want me to be Sad Sack Sarah at the bottom of the pile (fingers crossed!) please do vote for me by clicking here. Go to my pic (I'm number 41), then press vote. Easy as pie!
Then I popped down to The Fair Alternative to find a super-cute prize for my QUESTION! post and bumped in the lovely Lorna of Loladee (check out her etsy here) who gifted me an amazingly cute zipper brooch that I want to keep ALL TO MYSELF.
The winner, with an exhaustive list of blogs is Anne-Marie. Congrats! I'll tweet you with details.
Now onto the blog post at hand...
My mother very thoughtfully bought me a copy of Any Human Heart by William Boyd a few days ago. I'm a bit of a pedanto at times, so I decided to watch the entire Channel 4 series in one go before reading the book. Sometimes I read the book before watching the TV series/film, but my reasoning was that it wasn't so much the story that I was looking forward to as much as Boyd's writing itself. I'm so glad that I watched it now, because the series is so immaculate and well made and the characters so finely tuned and nuanced that I can't wait to read the book just so I can replay every episode in my head, complete with the fleshed-out details that the book provides.
One character who definitely didn't get enough screentime was Wallis Simpson, played by Gillian Anderson. She plays Wallis as an abrasive, self entitled social climber with a dress sense as sharp as her cheekbones and one liners. Paris Hilton - start taking notes.
Historical accounts of the real Simpson's personality run the gamut of bad to just plain evil. She was characterised as a control freak with OCD (definitely) gold-digger (possible), a Nazi sympathiser (probable) and a pseudo-prostitute trained in the sexual arts in a brothel in China (eh, I'll get back to you on that one). I remember reading that people thought that she was a hermaphrodite (or intersex, if I'm being very PC) in a bid to explain her childlessness. Not very likely.
Whatever you want to say about her, the woman had charisma. People are still boggled by her life, her personality and her political motivations. I'm boggled by her wardrobe. Wallis was exceptionally long and lean. Her wedding dress was copied into the hundreds of thousands and she was (and still is) lauded for her personal style and attention to detail.
In an article for The Telegraph, the author Rose Tremain says:
What Tremain sees in the Penn portrait is a look of abject fear. I, and many others, might disagree. That's the allure of Wallis Simpson, who didn't just dress well, but was totally unknowable, and always will be.
I don't for a second think that I'll come out on top with so many excellent blogs nominated, but if you like this blog and don't want me to be Sad Sack Sarah at the bottom of the pile (fingers crossed!) please do vote for me by clicking here. Go to my pic (I'm number 41), then press vote. Easy as pie!
Then I popped down to The Fair Alternative to find a super-cute prize for my QUESTION! post and bumped in the lovely Lorna of Loladee (check out her etsy here) who gifted me an amazingly cute zipper brooch that I want to keep ALL TO MYSELF.
The winner, with an exhaustive list of blogs is Anne-Marie. Congrats! I'll tweet you with details.
Now onto the blog post at hand...
My mother very thoughtfully bought me a copy of Any Human Heart by William Boyd a few days ago. I'm a bit of a pedanto at times, so I decided to watch the entire Channel 4 series in one go before reading the book. Sometimes I read the book before watching the TV series/film, but my reasoning was that it wasn't so much the story that I was looking forward to as much as Boyd's writing itself. I'm so glad that I watched it now, because the series is so immaculate and well made and the characters so finely tuned and nuanced that I can't wait to read the book just so I can replay every episode in my head, complete with the fleshed-out details that the book provides.
 |
| Gillian Anderson and Tom Hollander as Wallis Simpson and Prince Edward |
Historical accounts of the real Simpson's personality run the gamut of bad to just plain evil. She was characterised as a control freak with OCD (definitely) gold-digger (possible), a Nazi sympathiser (probable) and a pseudo-prostitute trained in the sexual arts in a brothel in China (eh, I'll get back to you on that one). I remember reading that people thought that she was a hermaphrodite (or intersex, if I'm being very PC) in a bid to explain her childlessness. Not very likely.
Whatever you want to say about her, the woman had charisma. People are still boggled by her life, her personality and her political motivations. I'm boggled by her wardrobe. Wallis was exceptionally long and lean. Her wedding dress was copied into the hundreds of thousands and she was (and still is) lauded for her personal style and attention to detail.
In an article for The Telegraph, the author Rose Tremain says:
"She, who is said to have coined the statement that "You can't be too rich or too thin", was stigmatised as being too ambitious, too ruthless, too greedy, too mannish, too sexual, too cruel, too divorced, too pro-German and too American. In the brilliant Irving Penn photo-portrait of her, which hangs in my study, she is backed into what appears to be a narrow cell, from which the only escape is towards the camera, into the glare of the flash and the click of the shutter."
 |
| Portrait by Irving Penn |
 |
| Portrait by Cecil Beaton |
 |
| Portrait by Cecil Beaton |
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Licentiate Column 25/11/10
I have a terrible secret to reveal. So terrible, I'm not quite sure that I should tell you what it is. But then again, if I didn't, this column would end right here, at the end of this sentence. And we don't want that now, do we? Perhaps you shouldn't answer that question.
My disappointingly non-secret secret is this; I have never been a guest at a Christmas party.
This isn't due to unpopularity (or so everyone keeps telling me as they slink off into the distance with the whisper of mistletoe and transgression ever-hanging in the air). This is due to my choice of work. For years I was a bartender, which means that I doled out the drinks at corporate do's, mixed Long Island Iced Teas on St Stephens Night and popped champagne corks at ten to midnight on New Year's Eve. There's no time for Christmas parties for people working in the hospitality sector - we got our party in February. The Christmas crackers had gone remarkably stale by that point.
Writing from home poses it's own party problem. There is no office, so there's no people. There's no people, so there is no party to go to. There's no party to go to, so I sit at home in my pajamas happily guzzling that bottle of Advocaat I found under the sink and watching the wizard of Oz.
This year marks the difference. This year will be my first as a CPG (Christmas Party Goer). The CPG is a different creature from your average party goer. Casual is out, the trousers are off and anything vaguely resembling tinsel is more in than Hugh Grant at a sorority gathering.
Here are a few pointers for the average CPG searching for the outfit of her dreams.
1) Go sparkly - but not too sparkly. Sequins are great. High shine, foil-backed fabric dresses are also great. Rhinestones are totally fabulous and criminally underused. Just don't wear them all at the same time, lest you become known as your local magpie fancier.
2) Your hemline is directly proportionate to how bright your frock is. Wearing an LBD? Then feel free to have your bum cleft exposed. Tis the season for more than just eggnog, you know. If your chosen party dress is a cerise-pink abomination with a smattering of precious gems and a not-so-subtle hint of 18th century parquetry, then by all means cover up the shoulders and thighs. The same goes for hair. The more ostentatious the dress, the more subdued the hairstyle. You want to look like you're having a Merry Christmas, not like you're auditioning for the inaugural cover of 'Playboy: The Toyland Edition'.
3) Always carry a tube of bright or dark lipstick for awkward mistletoe situations. Slick about half an inch on, then give that horrible, twig-dangling sleaze from HR the snog of his life. That'll teach 'im.
4) If you just KNOW that you're going to get mercilessly drunk, then wear an atrocious outfit to soften the blow with office gossips the next day.
Example: "Did you hear about Sinead eating twelve mince pies and vomiting on the karaeoke machine?"
"Who cares about that? Did. You. See. What. She. Was. Wearing?"
P.S Scroll down to the next post for a great giveaway. You can now 'like' The Licentiate on facebook , so if you do like this blog, don't be afraid to show your support and click here!
My disappointingly non-secret secret is this; I have never been a guest at a Christmas party.
This isn't due to unpopularity (or so everyone keeps telling me as they slink off into the distance with the whisper of mistletoe and transgression ever-hanging in the air). This is due to my choice of work. For years I was a bartender, which means that I doled out the drinks at corporate do's, mixed Long Island Iced Teas on St Stephens Night and popped champagne corks at ten to midnight on New Year's Eve. There's no time for Christmas parties for people working in the hospitality sector - we got our party in February. The Christmas crackers had gone remarkably stale by that point.
Writing from home poses it's own party problem. There is no office, so there's no people. There's no people, so there is no party to go to. There's no party to go to, so I sit at home in my pajamas happily guzzling that bottle of Advocaat I found under the sink and watching the wizard of Oz.
This year marks the difference. This year will be my first as a CPG (Christmas Party Goer). The CPG is a different creature from your average party goer. Casual is out, the trousers are off and anything vaguely resembling tinsel is more in than Hugh Grant at a sorority gathering.
Here are a few pointers for the average CPG searching for the outfit of her dreams.
1) Go sparkly - but not too sparkly. Sequins are great. High shine, foil-backed fabric dresses are also great. Rhinestones are totally fabulous and criminally underused. Just don't wear them all at the same time, lest you become known as your local magpie fancier.
2) Your hemline is directly proportionate to how bright your frock is. Wearing an LBD? Then feel free to have your bum cleft exposed. Tis the season for more than just eggnog, you know. If your chosen party dress is a cerise-pink abomination with a smattering of precious gems and a not-so-subtle hint of 18th century parquetry, then by all means cover up the shoulders and thighs. The same goes for hair. The more ostentatious the dress, the more subdued the hairstyle. You want to look like you're having a Merry Christmas, not like you're auditioning for the inaugural cover of 'Playboy: The Toyland Edition'.
3) Always carry a tube of bright or dark lipstick for awkward mistletoe situations. Slick about half an inch on, then give that horrible, twig-dangling sleaze from HR the snog of his life. That'll teach 'im.
4) If you just KNOW that you're going to get mercilessly drunk, then wear an atrocious outfit to soften the blow with office gossips the next day.
Example: "Did you hear about Sinead eating twelve mince pies and vomiting on the karaeoke machine?"
"Who cares about that? Did. You. See. What. She. Was. Wearing?"
P.S Scroll down to the next post for a great giveaway. You can now 'like' The Licentiate on facebook , so if you do like this blog, don't be afraid to show your support and click here!
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Blogger night out
A lovely time was had by all at the Cork Fashion Bloggers meeting. We ate num num num pizza at Sober Lane and came third in the table quiz despite all my best cheating efforts. We ladies talked White Russians, London excursions and the state of the Irish magazine industry. Then Aisling whipped out a box of Celebrations... The rest is a blur.
The more that I think about it, this blog post reads like a parish newsletter so I'll just be quiet and roll out the credits.
From L-R, Lorna, Dawn, Jo, Blau, Aisling, Me (excuse the awkward posture, I was trying to conceal a lipstick I had in my hand for some reason ) and Cathy. Photo - Jo Lenihan
Thursday, August 19, 2010
A massive roundup (with bonus giveaway section!)
I've been pretty much incommunicado due to travel and 'fat finger' syndrome from eating too many of my sister's delish cookies, cakes and brownies from The Hummingbird Bakery Cookbook. That, and I'm spending the next week in the hometown, clearing out my old room and attending the excuse for drinking on the street that is this monstrosity.
So, here are a few things I missed in the past week or so.
The trailer for The Black Swan, starring Natalie Portman and a hell of a lot of Rodarte costumes. It's got high fashion, psychological intrigue and slightly gross bird transmogrification going on, so something for everyone...
Speaking of birds, Cheap Monday have gone for an 'oil-on-water' look at Stockholm Fashion week. I'm not a massive fan of the jeans on the catwalk, but the cuts are great and the tops are a perfect mix of sheer and slouchy. Mostly, I just want to know where I can get those plazmoid boots. Waterproof and I have to force myself to wear matching socks? Excellent. (Fashion Gone Rogue)
New favourite editorials ; Josephine de la Baume gets sacrelicious for Oyster, German Vogue's massive triumvirate trend spread and Cintia Dicker having a modern West Side Story moment for Marie Claire France.
Moschino - one of my absolute, all-time, top 5 favourite labels, cross my heart and hope to die (exhale... phew) has collaborated with Gabriele Muccino on a short film, titled Senzo Tempo. And it's only beautiful.
You can throw a load of blood diamonds at Naomi Campbell via Super Fashion Stars. Unfortunately, it's just a flash game and not real life.
SUPER DUPER BONUS GIVEAWAY SECTION!!
Ok, less of that. Typing in caps makes me feel like I've just climbed a hill.
1) The lovely Ms LolaDee of Things I Fell in Love With Today is hosting a giveaway of her incredibly cute handmade accessories for her 300th commenter. Just go to http://www.loladee.com/ and leave a comment. It's that easy.
2) If you happen to be in Cork, the Lewis Glucksman Gallery is giving away free posters from the Mixtapes exhibition to all it's twitter followers today. There's three designs - I really want to get a hand on the Linder Sterling punk ladies poster - don't suppose anyone wants to pick one up for me?
3) I'm a big fan of Nina Chakrabharti and her whimsical illustrations and have blogged about her amazing book, My Wonderful World of Fashion before. You can win a signed illustration and a copy of the book just by displaying your best colouring efforts here.
P.S You can read my newest Licentiate column, only in The Cork Independent, out today! It's about leggings - they're not trousers, so cover your shame.
So, here are a few things I missed in the past week or so.
The trailer for The Black Swan, starring Natalie Portman and a hell of a lot of Rodarte costumes. It's got high fashion, psychological intrigue and slightly gross bird transmogrification going on, so something for everyone...
Speaking of birds, Cheap Monday have gone for an 'oil-on-water' look at Stockholm Fashion week. I'm not a massive fan of the jeans on the catwalk, but the cuts are great and the tops are a perfect mix of sheer and slouchy. Mostly, I just want to know where I can get those plazmoid boots. Waterproof and I have to force myself to wear matching socks? Excellent. (Fashion Gone Rogue)
New favourite editorials ; Josephine de la Baume gets sacrelicious for Oyster, German Vogue's massive triumvirate trend spread and Cintia Dicker having a modern West Side Story moment for Marie Claire France.
Moschino - one of my absolute, all-time, top 5 favourite labels, cross my heart and hope to die (exhale... phew) has collaborated with Gabriele Muccino on a short film, titled Senzo Tempo. And it's only beautiful.
You can throw a load of blood diamonds at Naomi Campbell via Super Fashion Stars. Unfortunately, it's just a flash game and not real life.
SUPER DUPER BONUS GIVEAWAY SECTION!!
Ok, less of that. Typing in caps makes me feel like I've just climbed a hill.
1) The lovely Ms LolaDee of Things I Fell in Love With Today is hosting a giveaway of her incredibly cute handmade accessories for her 300th commenter. Just go to http://www.loladee.com/ and leave a comment. It's that easy.
2) If you happen to be in Cork, the Lewis Glucksman Gallery is giving away free posters from the Mixtapes exhibition to all it's twitter followers today. There's three designs - I really want to get a hand on the Linder Sterling punk ladies poster - don't suppose anyone wants to pick one up for me?
3) I'm a big fan of Nina Chakrabharti and her whimsical illustrations and have blogged about her amazing book, My Wonderful World of Fashion before. You can win a signed illustration and a copy of the book just by displaying your best colouring efforts here.
P.S You can read my newest Licentiate column, only in The Cork Independent, out today! It's about leggings - they're not trousers, so cover your shame.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Vintage: Or, 'Are You Kidding Me?'
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| Pic: Lorna Dollery |
I don't usually put my columns up verbatim, as the people who subscribe to my blog may not be readers of The Cork Independent (but I do link shamelessly). This week however...
Let me explain. Last Sunday I went carbooting with Lorna from LolaDee and sold a few items. One item, a dress (to my immediate right in the pic above, hanging off the car boot) that Lorna had bought brand new in Italy was being scrutinised by a few ladies, who introduced themselves as owning a vintage shop. I offered to show them my few vintage bits, they politely declined, bought the dress and tootled along on their way.
A few days later, Lorna saw their shopfront and noticed that these ladies were now selling her distinctly non-vintage dress, falsely advertising it as being vintage. The column below is about the difference between thrift and vintage - maybe those ladies should take note.
The ability for humans to delude themselves is a wondrous thing; especially if shopping is involved and extra-super especially if second hand clothing is your vice. We disguise second-hand clothing, cloaking them with deceptive phrases like, 'thrift', 'gently used' or even, horror of horrors, 'vintage'. This humble writer knows her stuff when it comes to second-hand. Stripes have been earned, chops have been developed, cliches have been bandied without a sliver of shame that best illustrate just how much I know.
Here in Ireland, the Celtic Tiger was the wave on which the resurgent vintage phenomenon was borne and with it came a similar philosophy to its feline forefather - that of charging through the nose for inferior products just because the vendor could. There are many excellent handbooks on the subject of vintage, but since you, the reader, has picked up this great paper totally gratis, I'll give you a cod-version of second hand shopping for nada; the savvy woman's guide to second hand.
Second-hand is an umbrella term for several different types, all different but easily mistaken for one or the other of the following.
1) Gently worn clothing. You know that time you went into Brown Thomas and bought that leather trench that was sooo amazing even though it fit funny in the shoulders just because the sales were on? How amazing was that jacket? The answer is not very, because you took it home, realised that you looked like a less self-assured Shaft and buried it deep in your closet along with the Crocs, ill-fitting treggings and regrettable one-night stands, then dug it out and sold it at the local car boot. Voila, gently worn clothing. As a rule, gently worn clothing should be sold at about a third of its original price. Anything lower is a distinct bargain.
2) Thrift. The phrase 'one man's meat is another man's poison' has never been more relevant here than perhaps at a blowfish sushi convention. Thrift is usually the average stock of the very average charity shop. It is one or a combination of the following; well-worn, less than twenty years old, mass-produced and badly tailored, stained, flawed or ripped in some way. It can also be unusual or unexpected in the best possible way. Scoring a great bargain from a charity shop results in a high and a misplaced short term sense of achievement that the average Big Brother winner would be at odds to replicate. If you're a dab hand with a sewing machine, then thrift may be for you. I've seen cosmetic makeovers on oversized, psychedelic print kaftans that would put the average Swan contestant to shame.
3) Vintage. There's lots of thrift items that aspires to be vintage the way some people vie to join members-only clubs. However, if vintage was a club, there would be a very long waiting list. At least twenty years, to be specific. Vintage clothing should be in a good condition, wearable, fashionably relevant and relatively rare.Because of these factors, good vintage can be expensive. Your cheap vintage buy usually means that someone got very lucky, and that someone probably isn't you. One man's meat may be another man's poison, but there's no disputing the power of the fillet steak - maybe that's why it's so expensive.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
SubbaCouture - will you be there?
Spawned from the mind of Ms Blau von T of Blaubushka, SubbaCouture will be the first Freakscene club night to celebrate street style and subculture (so much so that I thought it was called 'SubbaCULTure'... derp). Here's the blurb.
Freakscene is Ireland's longest running club night with DJs over two floors and major drink deals. I've been going there every so often for more years than I would like to admit and, in the interests of disclosure, actually used to work in the club.
It's nothing if not all inclusive so don't worry if mod or burlesque or harajuku isn't your cup of tea. I would imagine that what's important is originality and balls-out enthusiasm so, if you want to dress like Lady Gaga or Adam Ant - 'any look that inspires you'. If anything this event is about self expression and outrageousness in the midst of one of the most non-judgemental nightclub crowds I've ever experienced.
"Every movement has had its own fashion associated with it; burlesque, MOD, punk, rave, grunge and the theatrical harajuku. Today we can see how all these previous identities are becoming more and more infused in the emergence of a modern street style. Inspired by this, Blaubushka hopes to throw the doors open to all the fashion lovers; be your fashion beginner, intermediate or advanced this is your chance to earn your stripes and join a new Cork fashion army.
Any look that's inspired you or any outfit that you thought Cork wasn't ready for, the time is NOW!"
Freakscene is Ireland's longest running club night with DJs over two floors and major drink deals. I've been going there every so often for more years than I would like to admit and, in the interests of disclosure, actually used to work in the club.
It's nothing if not all inclusive so don't worry if mod or burlesque or harajuku isn't your cup of tea. I would imagine that what's important is originality and balls-out enthusiasm so, if you want to dress like Lady Gaga or Adam Ant - 'any look that inspires you'. If anything this event is about self expression and outrageousness in the midst of one of the most non-judgemental nightclub crowds I've ever experienced.
Monday, April 19, 2010
Cork Fashion Week Young Designer of the Year Award
Saturday evening was the night of the Young Designer of the Year Award and was the first major event to kick off Cork Fashion Week.
I had the good luck to interview four of the six finalists for the Cork Independent last week. They were all nice as pie and very excited to be participating and, as I listened to them describing their inspiration and what they'd be working with, I started to get very excited indeed. As the day neared I started to wonder how their pieces would look on the catwalk as opposed to the images in my mind, and wondered if I'd be disappointed.
Nope. Not disappointed at all. In fact, I'm kicking myself for even harbouring such thoughts in the first place. Although all of the finalist's collections were excellent, for the sake of space (and my sanity because I'd probably end up writing a thesis) I'll stick to writing about my three favourites.
Laura Eliason - I could make a lorryload of puns about this American putting we Irish in the shade with her parasol heavy collection... but I wont. The parasol is a direct link to each of the outfits, as her main source of inspiration is a vintage umbrella that belonged to her grandmother. Everything was suitably vintage-esque, with nude shades and crochet details. The crochet! How my heart breaks for a nice bit of crochet. I really should have paid attention to my fifth class teacher when she was breaking out the crochet hooks instead of reading Sweet Valley High books. As you can see, the shape of the dresses are relaxed and fluid. I really wish I'd taken video footage because these photos really don't convey just how flouncy and flippy and flattering these pieces really are.
Marie Clair Foley
Foley's collection of dresses really have to be handled up close and personal in order to be properly appreciated. The hand dyed material in particular was a great design feature (the bodice on the pink dress above, second from right, was incredibly well constructed. I was staring at it so hard from my seat trying to see exactly where material was overlapped and folded that I almost forgot to take a snap). The hand dyed material really cut through the stripes and gingham, giving it an unusual edge. Also notable were the cut outs under the bust and around the back
And last but by no means least, my absolute favourite, the collection by Belinda Sullivan. There's no two ways about it - she should be working for Prada. While I wasn't too mad about the lime green accents (purely a personal thing), I was in love with everything else - the colours, the tailoring, the perfect balanced proportions, the textures; everything.
Her collection does seem very reminiscent of Prada. Think 'ladylike with a twist'. There's no way I could express how much I loved her looks in one paragraph, especially looks 1 and 4 above. The burnt orange and tweedy brown colour combination of the dress with short sleeved coat with an amazing, puckered texture... To quote Rachel Zoe, I die. And, of course, the the high-waisted sailor trousers had just the right amount of 'flip' at the cuffs - something that is sadly missing in many a pair of wide legged trousers.
Belinda won the competition - a well-deserved win. I can only hope we'll see more of her and the other contestants in the future.
I had the good luck to interview four of the six finalists for the Cork Independent last week. They were all nice as pie and very excited to be participating and, as I listened to them describing their inspiration and what they'd be working with, I started to get very excited indeed. As the day neared I started to wonder how their pieces would look on the catwalk as opposed to the images in my mind, and wondered if I'd be disappointed.
Nope. Not disappointed at all. In fact, I'm kicking myself for even harbouring such thoughts in the first place. Although all of the finalist's collections were excellent, for the sake of space (and my sanity because I'd probably end up writing a thesis) I'll stick to writing about my three favourites.
Laura Eliason - I could make a lorryload of puns about this American putting we Irish in the shade with her parasol heavy collection... but I wont. The parasol is a direct link to each of the outfits, as her main source of inspiration is a vintage umbrella that belonged to her grandmother. Everything was suitably vintage-esque, with nude shades and crochet details. The crochet! How my heart breaks for a nice bit of crochet. I really should have paid attention to my fifth class teacher when she was breaking out the crochet hooks instead of reading Sweet Valley High books. As you can see, the shape of the dresses are relaxed and fluid. I really wish I'd taken video footage because these photos really don't convey just how flouncy and flippy and flattering these pieces really are.
Marie Clair Foley
Foley's collection of dresses really have to be handled up close and personal in order to be properly appreciated. The hand dyed material in particular was a great design feature (the bodice on the pink dress above, second from right, was incredibly well constructed. I was staring at it so hard from my seat trying to see exactly where material was overlapped and folded that I almost forgot to take a snap). The hand dyed material really cut through the stripes and gingham, giving it an unusual edge. Also notable were the cut outs under the bust and around the back
And last but by no means least, my absolute favourite, the collection by Belinda Sullivan. There's no two ways about it - she should be working for Prada. While I wasn't too mad about the lime green accents (purely a personal thing), I was in love with everything else - the colours, the tailoring, the perfect balanced proportions, the textures; everything.
Her collection does seem very reminiscent of Prada. Think 'ladylike with a twist'. There's no way I could express how much I loved her looks in one paragraph, especially looks 1 and 4 above. The burnt orange and tweedy brown colour combination of the dress with short sleeved coat with an amazing, puckered texture... To quote Rachel Zoe, I die. And, of course, the the high-waisted sailor trousers had just the right amount of 'flip' at the cuffs - something that is sadly missing in many a pair of wide legged trousers.
Belinda won the competition - a well-deserved win. I can only hope we'll see more of her and the other contestants in the future.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Cork Fashion Week Supplement
I've been blogging for only a month so I have no routine or posting pattern (on this blog at least, the sister blog has been steadily chugging along for six months or so). I'm sure if I had been blogging for an extended period of time I'd no doubt be apologising over extended absences or lack of content. Or something. However, I've been busy beavering away on The Cork Independent's Cork Fashion Week supplement. Along with a host of talented, hard-working writers and bloggers I'm glad to have helped to put a very nice package together. Did anyone see it when it came out on Thursday? Everyone worked very hard on it and all the staff at the Cork Indo deserve a huuuuge pat on the back for their efforts. Here's my contributions.
Unless you have microscopic vision you'll notice that the pictures have been resized and the text is barely legible. Worry not! You can read the digital edition here (just click on the digital edition icon on the right of the screen).
EDIT - Credit where it's due...
The Young Designer of the Year outfit is by Belinda Sullivan
Lookbook
Young Designer of the Year
Gingham scuba dress by Norwegian Wood at Etsy
1940's Vintage pumps by Dear Golden Vintage at Etsy
Sailor hat at River Island
Coloured hairspray and gels available at Boots
Toni and Guy Loves You
Dress at French Connection
Shoes by Louise Goldin for Topshop
Boutique@The Imperial
Floral dress at MyAmity
Bustier at River Island
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| An interview with the organisers, Vivienne Kelly and Emer O'Sullivan |
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| A rundown of The Young Designer Awards and the contestants |
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| A lookbook for three of the main shows - and an ad for lovely white teeth |
Unless you have microscopic vision you'll notice that the pictures have been resized and the text is barely legible. Worry not! You can read the digital edition here (just click on the digital edition icon on the right of the screen).
EDIT - Credit where it's due...
The Young Designer of the Year outfit is by Belinda Sullivan
Lookbook
Young Designer of the Year
Gingham scuba dress by Norwegian Wood at Etsy
1940's Vintage pumps by Dear Golden Vintage at Etsy
Sailor hat at River Island
Coloured hairspray and gels available at Boots
Toni and Guy Loves You
Dress at French Connection
Shoes by Louise Goldin for Topshop
Boutique@The Imperial
Floral dress at MyAmity
Bustier at River Island
Friday, April 2, 2010
Fi Lo (the dj, not the pastry)
This is Fiona. She's one smart lady. Fiona is one of those multi-tasking legends that intimidates me by working two jobs, formulating sets, booking holidays and being a great mother in the time that it would normally take me to make and eat a piece of toast. Quickly. She's a go-getter, There is no other word.
I took a few photos of Fiona, who gigs under the name of DJ Fi Lo before one of her sets a few weeks ago. I'm only getting around to doing it now, which just goes to show that if I was anything like Fiona I'd have them up by now. Oh well.
Rocking a McQueen-esque dress. Not the slightly scary screens in the top right corner. There were silhouettes of naked ladies bouncing around like a Bond film opening sequence on acid, which hypnotised (and occasionally scared) me to no end...
The set was a mix of mash-ups, house and chart, and was funky as fuck (ahem). Midway through the night a girl came in wearing a dress made entirely of playing cards. I really wish I'd saved the picture now. Even her little top hat was made out of cards. Oh well. Another time maybe...
I took a few photos of Fiona, who gigs under the name of DJ Fi Lo before one of her sets a few weeks ago. I'm only getting around to doing it now, which just goes to show that if I was anything like Fiona I'd have them up by now. Oh well.
Rocking a McQueen-esque dress. Not the slightly scary screens in the top right corner. There were silhouettes of naked ladies bouncing around like a Bond film opening sequence on acid, which hypnotised (and occasionally scared) me to no end...
The set was a mix of mash-ups, house and chart, and was funky as fuck (ahem). Midway through the night a girl came in wearing a dress made entirely of playing cards. I really wish I'd saved the picture now. Even her little top hat was made out of cards. Oh well. Another time maybe...
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